Ässä vihdoin katsastettu! Mutta mikä ihme oli vikana?? – Audi S2 ep23

Ässä vihdoin katsastettu! Mutta mikä ihme oli vikana?? – Audi S2 ep23

Hello, last time we were left to situation
where Audi stalled during test drive It didn’t start right away. I waited few minutes at cold. Apparently it cooled a bit and
I got it runnig again I was able to drive it back in and
that was the end of last video. Tested next day and with same result.
When it’s warm it doesn’t start. If you wait for awhile it does start. in some point I started to realize that there could be
still something wrong with timing I took valve cover off. I started filming after that, so let’s get to it. had to take intake cam off and rotate it backwards…I think.. anyway that was 1 tooth off anyway now it should be timed correctly TDC should be now spot on. I will double check it with dial indicator and “stick” here. so this goes to spark plug hole and we’ll check that TDC with dial indicator. hope those idle problems was caused by that It depends on that cam gear if it’s original and is that cam standard one that belongs to this engine if those aren’t then it could be that timing
was correct even tho marks were off but we’ll see that after I put everything back together but I’ll double check that TDC I put everything back together moment of truth, let see if it starts and runs does it run better? does it explode… seems to be running much smoother AR is 13.1 but the enrichment is still on Yes it seems to be working as should phew! Ok car runs good, some oil is
coming out from turbos return line that needs to be repaired with sealant speedo stopped working but think it’s this wire, I have ripped it so need to check that And what’s causing starting problem is this already cleaned that plug, there was oil in there think it helped but have to see anyway think these wires has the problem either its in this sensor wire or in the engine loom. but that doesn’t matter as now
I know where the problem is that would be easy to fix Have been figuring few days
why it doesn’t start when warm It runs normally but it doesn’t start before it has cooled a bit I broke my VagCom cable when I put
cabels wrong way to those diagnostic ports so one chip got busted from the cable.
Had to order new one. but I could read the codes with that blink thingy and one of those relates to
crank position sensor which is here Measured distance between pin
and sensor which was 3mm and it should be under 1.2mm So prolly that’s causing the problem now thought I “repair” that pin
as I don’t think I can get it off If I get it off I will weld bump to it so try to get it longer and closer to sensor. if I don’t get if off
I try to weld when its on would be nice if I could get it off.. but have to see.. but anyway that’s the way to look for codes in these cars. plug led to blacks +pin and blue -pin and when you want the next error
you just short black and white -pins now it blinks that speed sensor but
that’s normal in these when engine is not running but hope we found the problem… welded a bump to that pin next I start to dremel that away have to get it straight have to see how I can reach it.. Audi has finally passed inspection
and last filming was.. when I worked with that flywheel pin that helped with the starting problem measured it again and cap between
sensor and pin wasn’t 3mm it was almost none when I rotated
engine to correct position got that pin bit longer so think that helped and now it gets singnal also when warm dunno, but now it works as should inspection paper is here and front brakes were so much one-sided, 30% difference 30% difference drivers side is weaker and that I could tell as it pulls right when you push brake pedal quite hard I have tried to repair that now and before but it was enough for MOT Have to keep eye on it and hope
it gets better after more driving. brakes were poor overall first
but they are getting better so I’m confident that those get better. prolly it’s because old pads those are mixed and wont fit properly to rotors. future will tell how those turn out and when I was driving to MOT
max boost was just 0.4bar and it went lean CO values were ok altho map sensor
hose was disconnected.. basically there was vacuum leak the whole time but CO values were ok.. Finally Audi has gone through MOT
and now we can drive 14 months All those little faults in the engine
are now located and fixed that problem with starting
could have been from 2 sensors from that Hall sensor which is under cam gear and that crank position sensor because I diagnosed it is that hall sensor my son wiggled that wire on somepoint
when I started which helped but in somepoint when I repaired that.
There was one wire quite loose, in the plug so I soldered that and cleaned the plug as it was quite dirty, oil or something. after all it didn’t help final thing that solved it was when I welded
that bump in the crank sensor grinded that more than 2 hours as it was so hard to reach with dremel that was so time consuming task
but atleast now car works as should. it’s been few days since last filming so I have driven the car a bit seems to be working just fine. but then I have my cost excel here thought we go through the costs what has been added since
last cost brake down video think the last time we were at 636 eur so if I look whats installed after that bumper center grill was missing that I ordered from ebay and it was 50€
+ 23€ shipping and that is 73€ bumper fastening metal which was missing ordered that one from TR shop at
the same time I ordered more stuff that I could have maked from sheet metal… that was 7.74€ then I changed windscreen water deflectors. Passenger side had holes in it so I chose to order new ones
as those were not so expensive. Left side was 12,97€, Right one 25,76€ then I changed front side blinkers those were 7.5€ bulbs included rear light connector plug which came from Arto was 5€ Front caliber refurbish was counted 29 but it was around 30€ rear caliber refurbish is 44.50€ new rear light to drivers side was 65€ front caliper bolts were 8.90 so around 9€ right side mirror was bad so had to buy that that was 10.50€ then that new rear muffler was 82€ 90 angle pipe from muffler which
comes out from bumper was 12€ exhaust clamps and supports 18€ front fog light bulps were 4€ then those red cover pieces under headlights and and new inner light those were 34€ ash tray I also bought, could’v had that from parts car have 2 of those now but did buy that before. that was 28€ then theres few exhaust seals 5€ that’s about it 473€ total which becomes as 1108,57€ so about 1110€ we have put money in this it’s not going to be cheap and when I watch the list that
hasn’t installed.. theres quite much… but anyways… it is what it is and think I still
have to spend few thousands that this would be in mint condition but this was it for now
lot’s of talk not so much doing next I thought I clean the seats or actually after this… then I have to install block heater cable after that this should be ready for winter. on somepoint I will change
those cheap motox oils but I will drive couple hundred
kilometers before the change. after that.. it should be service free for whole winter.. hopefully. but anyways remember to order those caps
so I can get new stuff for filming new tripod would be nice. but BYE for now!

You May Also Like

About the Author: John Markowski


  1. Jännä rusaus lähtee penkistä kohdassa 14:49 ? näkee kun kaverilla jää hiukan sanat kesken ja sit jatketaan ihan pokkana. ??

  2. On siinä vaan ollu melkoisesti hommaa.? Hieno juttu, että leima tuli.?Itsellä on niin vanhoja autoja, että niissä ei noita antureita ole. Katselen paljon autovideoita ja usein vika näyttää niistä löytyvän.?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *