How to sew a zip-up hooded sweat jacket with kangaroo pockets – tutorial

How to sew a zip-up hooded sweat jacket with kangaroo pockets – tutorial


Hello dear sewistas.
Today I would like to sew this cool, really comfy hooded jacket made from sweatshirt fabric
with you. The pattern is available for men as well as for women. The special thing about
this hoodie is how it includes interior facing for a nice and tidy finish.
And as always, you can download it on my website pattydoo. In this video I will now demonstrate the following
steps. The first thing we will do is prepare and sew on a kangoroo-style front pouch pocket.
Next, I will show you how to process the zipper using facing. After this, how to sew on the
raglan. Then we will line the hood and sew this on as well. And last but not least, we
attach the cuffs. Today, I am sewing with my machine by Pfaff,
and hereby the added upper transport will be very useful. Furthermore, I will also be
using my serger machine by Bernina. For more information on the sewing machines, please
click the corresponding links. Here, I have already prepared the pieces for
our hoodie. We have the two front parts, one back part, which will be cut in the fold,
two facing strips for the zipper, here in the correct length. We have two raglan sleeves,
a left one and a right one, and four pieces for the hood in total, two for the outside
and two for the inside. Here are the two pieces for the pouch pocket. Beyond this, we have
the cuffs for the pocket openings, two sleeve cuffs and here the hem cuff. So, let’s get going! We begin with the preparation
of the pouch pocket, whereby I will sew the first seams with the serger machine. But
you can also sew the entire jacket with a normal sewing machine. Which settings you
should be watching out for you can watch in my video to the shirt ELAINE.
In the first step we now fold the cuff strips wrong sides together and pin them, while eveningly
distributing the fabric, along the openings to the pocket. Then we sew it on with a seam allowance, or a seam width of seven millimeters or 1/4 of an inch. This is what the two pocket pieces look like
now. Now we can fold over the cuff. And if it is a little bit puckered here, I would
recommend ironing the edge. And next, we will quilt stitch the edge here with a normal sewing
machine, so the everything lays nice and flat. I will now sew two millimeters from the edge
and will use a quilt stitch with a small length of 2. Equally, you could use a decorative
seam or a cover seam to do this. Because the seam beginning is a little thick here, I will
lay a little piece of fabric under the back part of the presser foot, so the beginning
is easier to sew. The edges are now quilted, and if like mine,
yours is a little puckered here, you can whip that back into shape by ironing it.
Next, we will iron the upper and side edges of our pouch pieces over by seven millimeters or 1/4 of an inch. The edges we have ironed over can now be secured with a few pins. We can now sew on the prepared pocket pieces
to the frontal pieces of our hoodie. To do so, we lay them together here at the lower
corners and then use the pins from the previous step to secure them. You have to make sure that the pocket pieces
end on the same height here, and then sew them on narrowly along the edge with the sewing
machine. Here too, I will use a quilt stitch and sew 2mm from the edge. To prevent that the pocket later tears at the openings, I will change my seam type here on the cuff, and proceed with a tight zig-zag stitch. So, this is what the first seam looks like
now, and in exactly the same way, I will now sew the remaining three. And this is what the sewn on and ironed kangaroo
pocket looks like now! And in the next step we will tackle the zipper. Before we sew it
on, we will reinforce the frontal edges of the front pieces, as well as of the facing
pieces. This will prevent that the edges later get stretched out while sewing. To do so, we iron some bias binding or some
interfacing cut into a strip onto the wrong fabric side. This is placed centrally on top
of the later seam, which will have a distance of one centimeter or 3/8 of an inch to the edge. Since our zipper will later also run through the cuff area, we will now already sew a little
part of it to the front part here. To do so, we lay it right sides together and sew with
the sewing machine a seam that is seven centimeters or just under 3 inches long. The seam allowance hereby is seven millimeters or 1/4 of an inch. In a similar fashion we now sew the hem cuff
to the other front piece. Either you have several pieces, or you have a single hem cuff,
whereby you then have to make sure that it isn’t twisted when attaching it to the other
front piece. The hem cuff is now sewn on, and before I
fold it apart, I am going to make a little mark for myself by placing a little notch
here at the middle of the cuff. In doing so, I have marked the end of the
zipper. Now I sew it right sides together to the front edge. The zipper end is located
here, as is indicated by our notch. And up here, the silder is on the inside and one
centimeter away from the edge. By the way, this upper edge in the pattern
is sized exactly to common zipper lengths. So then you don’t have to go out of your
way to shorten it. Now, we pin the zipper in place and sew it
on with an edge stitch foot. I have now inserted my edge stitch foot and
pull the slider on the zipper down a little. The zipper beginning lies one centimeter or 3/8 of an inch under this edge. The zipper band I will now fold inwards diagonally. The seam allowance is
about one centimeter or 3/8 of an inch. Now, I will leave the needle in the fabric,
lift the presser foot and pull the slider back up past the needle, then lower the presser foot again and the continue sewing. The one zipper half is now sewn on, and next
we will sew on the second side, which naturally is attached to the other front piece. Hereby,
we now have to make sure that the seams of the hem cuff and here of this pocket are later
on the same height. To do so, I am going to mark each of these spots with a pin. Now I will lay the second zipper half right
sides together with the other front piece. To do this, I will now fold over everything
here and make sure that these pins precisely line up here with the hem, or rather the pocket
seam. And then I pin the zipper in place here too,
beginning down here at the notch all the way up to the top, at about one centimeter or 3/8 of an inch to the edge. Here too I fold over the zipper band Diagonally. The zipper is now affixed to both sides. Now we can fold the whole thing apart here, and
see how the seams are nicely on the same height. And because the inside of our hoodie should
also look nice and neat, we will now sew on the facing in the next step. On these, not
only have I strengthened the frontal edge with interfacing, but also previously serged
this little short and this round edge here. I will now take the corresponding facing piece,
and lay the straight edge here along the zipper and then lay it right sides together down
here along the cuff, and then sew this short stretch with the sewing machine. In the same way, I will now sew on the second piece of facing. Both facing pieces are now affixed to the
hem cuff, and soon it will become clear how it all fits together. Now we will also sew the facing on along this edge. Whereby we do not want to sew on the facing side, but instead sew on the front piece,
so that we can sew exactly along this seam. Before I do this, I pin together all layers. I have inserted an edge stitch food, and now sew directly on this seam. This is what the sewn-on facing looks like now, and next we can fold it over inwards.
Then you can see how the zipper is now nicely covered both from the inside and the outside. If you want, you also quilt this edge at the
zipper a little bit, whereby it is thick at these spots and this is thus a little a tricky.
In the same way we will now sew on the second piece of facing at the front edge. After now the second facing piece is affixed, we are done with the preparation of our two front pieces. So next, we can sew on the raglan sleeves. Using the notches on the fabric edge,
that I carried over from the pattern pieces as orientation, I can correctly align the
right sleeves. This way the two notches of the front piece
meet up with the notches on the sleeve. Now I lay the sleeves right sides together on the front piece and secure them with a few pins along this stretch here – the facing
is hereby not pinned. Now I will sew the seam with a n overlock
machine, with a seam width of seven millimeters or 1/4 of an inch. Here, in this curved lower area I will lay
the fabric out flat for myself. Now both the sleeves have been sewn on to
the front part, and now we will also sewn them on the back part. Here the notches will now meet up woth their counterparts. After the sleeves are sewn on, we can now
lay the front piece and the back piece right sides together, and close up the side seams.
I will now pin both pieces together, so the two sleeve seams meet up here. Now I will sew the side seams, beginning up here at the sleave hem. Both side seams are now closed up. Next, we can prepare the hood! To do so, we will first
put the two hood parts for the outside and inside of the hood right sides together. This is what the two parts look like now, and now we pin the inside of the hood right
on right side and sew them together along the front edge. This is what our hood looks like now we have
turned it right side out! In the next step we can iron the front edge and quilt stitch it. Or, if you want, you could now sew a tunnel
along the hood’s edge, through which to feed a draw string, potentially made from
a decorative band. I will now show you how to do this, and how to sew the tunnel and
affix metal eyelets to its openings. My metal eyelets have a diameter of eight
millimeters and are matched to the drawstring that will later be pulled through. The tunnel
will also be accordingly wide. The position of my eyelet should be seven
millimeters or 1/4 of an inch from the frontal edge and 2 centimeters or 7/8 of an inch from the lower edge. While positioning, think about that here at this lower edge you will lose seven millimeters or 1/4 of an inch to seam allowance, and that you also need enough space next to the eyelet to sew the tunnel seam later. I will mark the correct position for my eyelet
with a little dot. This area here I will now reinforce on the fabric’s back side with
a somewhat larger piece of interfacing. And do exactly the same on the other side.
That way, we prevent that the eyelets rip out later. Now we can affix the eyelets according
to the manufacturer’s instructions. After both the eyelets have been affixed,
we now iron the front edge. Now we can sew the tunnel seam and to be sure,
just before we do so we should pin together both layers. For the tunnel seam I will now use a quilt
stitch. This will run in a distance of three centimeters or 1 and 1/4 inches to the edge, and to do so I stuck on a marking for myself here. So that I can easily sew past the eyelet, I have inserted
an edge stitch foot. Now I can feed my band through the tunnel
with a safety pin. If you have a very thick band or small eyelets, then I would recommend
you insert these before you sew the tunnel. After you have threaded through the band,
you can sew over or knot the ends. So, we have finished preparing our hood and can now
sew it on to the neckline. To do so, we sew the frontal areas to the facing pieces with
the sewing machine. In doing so, I lay apart the front edge and position the hood so the
later outside meets up with the front piece. The facing is then folded over it and thus
meets up with the inside of the hood. Now I have these four layers, whereby the upper
edge of the facing exactly lines up with the upper edge of the front piece.
And this stretch I now pin together and sew it with the sewing machine. Just check again
to make sure that all four layers are really nice and smooth, and that the hood’s edge
exactly meets up with the front edge here. I will now use a quilt stitch and sew with a seam allowance of seven millimeters or 1/4 of an inch. This is what this seam looks like now, and
in that same way I will now sew the other side of the hood on here. Now we can shorten the seam allowances here
at the corners, turn the facing inwards and check if the hood is at the same height on
both sides. If needed, you can correct the seam at this point. Now we just have to sew on the remaining parts
of the hood. To do so, we pin all the layers together here, whereby the notches line up,
and the hood seam should here align with the middle of the back piece. We will begin with the seam just underneath
the facing, and in doing so fold it back, and take the here already sewn together four layers. And then we begin about five centimeters or 2 inches here above this end. While sewing, make sure that all three fabric layers are smooth and perfectly aligned. Also at the seam end I will fold the facing
over again, and on this front part here I will also sew five centimeters from the previous seam. Now our hood is completely sewn on, and you
can see here in the front part, everything is nice and tidy. Now, last but not least,
we can quilt stitch this short edge of the facing onto the seam allowance of the sleeve seam. In the next step, we now sew on the hem cuff,
which too is already affixed in the frontal areas, and now we pin it evenly along the
bottom edge of the hoodie’s body. To do so, I marked the middle of my cuff and
now fold the front edge over to this point, because then I can also mark the quarter length
with another little notch. Now I pin both layers of the cuff right sides
together to the body of the jacket, whereby these notches line up with the side seams
and the middle of the back part. Here in this area of the front edge, I lay
the facing nice and flat. Then I reach inwards to the seam allowances, of both the facing
and the front piece, and lay these on top of each other. This way, the cuff lies on
the inside and then I pin these layers together and sew them like I did with the hood. I begin with this little piece in the area I have already sewn. Like at the beginning of the stretch, here at the end too I lay the facing on the other
side, grasp the two inside seam allowances, lay them exactly on top of each other and
here too sew a little bit into this area. Now our hem cuff is also sewn on, and you
can see here how the seam runs under the facing and everything is nice and tidy. Last but
not least, we also have to sew the sleeve cuffs. In order to do so, I have here already
sewn the rectangles right sides together into rings. These I now fold so the wrong fabric
sides are together. Mark the middle with a pin and then secure the cuff, right sides together,
in the sleeve. Thereby the cuff seams line up with the sleeve seam and the marked middle with the middle of the sleeve. The cuff lies on the inside of the sleeve
while we sew, and I stretch it slightly to ensure the fabric is evenly distributed along the length of the wrist hole. And thus the sleeve cuffs are complete as
well, and now let’s slip into our new piece! So, this was my sewing tutorials for both
girls and boys to try out! You can find more sewing tips and tricks and
further patterns on my website pattydoo. And if you always want to stay up to speed, then
subscribe to my Youtube-Channel. I hope you have fun sewing this project. Good bye!

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About the Author: John Markowski

28 Comments

  1. Hello, I have a question!, I was hoping to purchase this pattern (for men), but I'm not sure if it's going to fit my boyfriend, his measurements are 53" both in chest and waist, the XXXL it's goin to fit him tight or lose (like the picture of the model), thanks in advance for answer me, I love your videos, regards from Mexico!

  2. Hallo Ina!Super wie immer, danke! ein Wunsch von mir: Eine Bomberjacke für Kids wäre toll! Lieben Gruß, Claudia

  3. Hello Pattydoo, i love your videos. You are amazing! I have a question, what kind of fabric you used for this sweatshirt? Thank you in advance for answer me.

  4. Please does any one know which size of printing paper can I use for Ina pattydoo sewing patterns? I'm living in Malaysia.Thanks

  5. Thanks so much for this video. You were very explicit with your explanations. Also, do you do patterns for children? I want to make one for my grandson. Please let me know. Thanks again.

  6. I really appreciate your videos. They help me understand the trickier details like the hem/facing join or the hood/neckline seam. A lot of YouTube bloggers don't include these professional-looking details.
    I sew using Hotpatterns, and the directions can be brief. But, the methods used in the patterns are the same ones you use, so I can see how it goes together
    Again, thank you.

  7. Thank you for such a well constructed and well demod video. just what i am looking for for my two son's. could you tell me please. if i was to buy the pattern from you would the instructions be in German or english . also. one of my son's is 6 foot 2 inches and chest 47 inches and waist 46 inches does your patten go up to his size. Thank you again. x OK sorry..i have just found the answer to my question about if the patent would be in english or not. i will read on about sizes.

  8. I know this video is a few years old, but what stitch should I used if I'm not using a serging machine, only a regular house sewing machine?

  9. Can u pls tell me the hoodie mesurement lengh×weadth and also deepness of neck front and back for 17 years????

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