Today I would like to make with you a cool sweatshirt with hip hood in wrap optic The hoodie has extra-long sleeves with thumb holes in the wristband. The side seams run diagonally into the front thus stylishly accommodating the front pockets The large hood is lined and consists out of two pieces which cross over in the front. This way you can cuddle in. The sewing pattern fort the hoodie can be found on my website, just click on the link below. I recommend that you use soft, stretchy fabrics such as sweat or fleece. We already prepared all of the pattern pieces for our hoodie. We already prepared all of the pattern pieces for our hoodie. We cut each the front and back bodice on fold. Because the side seams run diagonally the back bodice is wider than the front piece on the bottom. For the slash, respectively the seam pockets we prepared two pieces: the rear and front pocket pouch. The hood consists of each a right and left piece for the outer and inner side. Then we have the right and left sleeve, the wristband (cuff) and waistband pieces. These can be made out of the same fabric or ribbed knit fabric. If you like, you can add a drawstring to the hood. In this case you will need matching grommets and the tools to install them. To sew this sweatshirt I am using my Pfaff sewing machine and my Bernina serger. If you do not have a serger, you can of course sew the entire hoodie with a normal sewing machine. Tips and tricks can be seen in my Video for the shirt “Elaine” So let’s start now: first, we will prepare the pockets. For this we are placing the front pocket pouch right side down here at the bottom and side edge of the front bodice. Notice that both of the notches are laying on one another. Now we are sewing the front pocket pouch from notch to notch using the width of the presser foot as a seam allowance. Sew with a straight stitch and short stitch length and secure the beginning and end of the stitching. This is what the seam looks like now. We now carefully snip the notches close to the seam, fold the pocket pouch over to the other side so that the seam allowance on top and bottom of the pouch overlap. Iron the seam. I am ironing the slip pocket edge so that the edge lays exactly on the fold. This way this edge of the slip pocket will not be visible later. Now we flip the front bodice to the other side and place the rear pocket pouch right sides together onto the front pocket pouch and are sewing the curved edge with a serger. The seam allowance, respective the width of the overlock stitch is ¼ “ The seam looks like this now and I have sewn the other pocket in the same matter. Now we can turn the front bodice over to the other side and with the sewing machine sew all of the layers together on the bottom and side edge. This way the pockets are fixated so that nothing can move in the next step as we topstitch the pocket. To do this flip the front bodice over to the other side and make sure that the pocket pouches are lying flat. Pin in place place and sew the curved edge using the width of the presser foot as seam allowance. Take your time for this seam so that it will be looking clean and consistent. My stitches look like this now. If you like you can sew a second line of straight or decorative stitches next to the first one. In the next step we will sew the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice right sides together. In the next step we will sew the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice right sides together. To do this we lay the front and back bodice apart and pin the sleeve right sides together into the armhole. Pay attention that the notches are laying on one another. Here at the front bodice you see two notches next to one another, these meet the double notches on the sleeve. It works best if the sleeve is on top while sewing. Because the fabric is stretchy we can pull the curve to form a straight line. After we have sewn the sleeves on, we can close the side seams from top to bottom. The sleeve edges of the front and back and the notches at the pockets and back bodice lay on top of one another. We pin the edge of the slip pocket so that we do not accidently sew the edge into the side seam. I start on top of the sleeve. The finished side seam looks like this: now we can check if the edges at the slip pocket are nicely sewn. Should the seam be not perfect, we can repair this by sewing that edge a bit with the sewing machine close to the serged stitch. Following we can sew the other side of the sleeve and side. We continue with the hood: for this we sew the curved edge of the hood pieces for the outer hood and the hood lining right sides together. Next, we will sew the long front edge of the outer hood and lining right sides together. Both hood pieces are now sewn together and if you would like to have a drawstring on your hood, you can now install the grommets. I copied the position of the grommet onto the left side of the outer hood piece from the pattern and ironed some interfacing for stabilization. Now I turn the hood and install the grommets using the correct tools. Now we can sew the tunnel for the cord. Depending on how thick your cord is and on the size of the grommets, you can sew the tunnel 2 to 3 cm from the front edge. I am sewing my tunnel 1” from the front edge Note that I ironed the edge so that it lays nicely on the fold. If you like, you can use some tape to mark where the edge of the hood should pass along to keep the same distance while sewing. Additionally I am using an edge- presser foot in order to sew comfortably where the grommets are. The tunnel is now finished and we can use a safety pin to thread the cord. The drawstring is now threaded. Before we attach the hood to the neck opening, we edge stitch the two bottom layers of the hood to prevent any slipping and misaligning later. The edge is now fixated, Next we can edge stitch the overlap of the hood so that nothing can slip while attaching the hood onto the neck opening. The two notches for the front bodice meet one another the hood’s seam meets the middle of the rear bodice and the side notches – respective the edges of the hoot meet the side shoulder seams. Now we can sew the prepared hood onto the neckline. For this we have the sweatshirt with the left side facing us and slip the hood inside so that the shirt and hood are touching right sides together. The notches in the front middle lay on top of one another, the hood’s seam meets the middle of the rear bodice and the side notches – respective the edges of the hoot meet the side shoulder seams. Now we sew all around the neck opening . beginning at this point of the front bodice. The hood lays on top while sewing. Pay attention to catch all the layers. Our wrap- optic hood is now finished, now we will work on the wristbands (cuffs). Because our cuffs have thumb – holes, we have to first prepare those: we are not sewing a continuous seam here at the cuff piece, but leave a 3 cm hole each 1” from the edge at the top and bottom of the cuff. After you have prepared the cuff with the two openings, lay the seam allowances open and fold the cuff left sides together so that the seam allowances meet here and the holes are laying on top on one another. Check to make sure that the seam allowances are lying flat on one another and pin it all together. Sew all around the thumb opening close to the edge. Should the version with the thumb- hole in the cuff be too complicated for you, you can certainly sew simple wristbands on. For this you have to shorten the pattern piece- how this is done can be found in the e-book Now we can pin the cuffs right sides together onto the sleeves. The side seams of the cuffs and sleeves lay on top of one another and notice that I have made myself a notch in the middle of the cuff and sleeve -these also lay on top of one another. I am sewing now within the cuff and stretch it lightly. The cuff is now sewn on and looks like this. The waistband is sewn in the same manner. I already prepared the band and have sewn it together to a ring, folded this in half with left sides touching and marked the ¼ segments with notches. When we pin this band right sides together onto the bottom of our shirt, the notches on the shirt and band will meet at the front and back center and the side seams. The seam of the waistband meets the other side seam of the shirt. Also in this case, the wrist band lays on top while sewing and should be stretched a little bit. Our cool hoodie is finished! If need something else to complete your new outfit, just click here and check out this video where I show you how to sew some leggings. Or would you rather make an easy basic shirt? Take a look at this video here and watch how to make several variations. If you would like to stay current with all of my project make sure to subscribe to ma channel. And now I wish you lots of fun sewing. Bye, see you soon.